An Ode to Arlene: An Indiana Brunch Favorite Makes Big Changes

Editor’s Note: Arlene’s Meat and Three announced that they would be going back to the Milktooth name in early June 2026; they sited a drop in overall walk-ins and midweek purchases as reason for going back to the original milktooth concept, but they’ve kept the meat and three concept as a menu item going forward. The article below has been left as it was originally shared on May 7.

When Fletcher Place favorite, Milktooth, opened its doors last Saturday, May 2nd, it wasn’t to serve its signature hits: larger-than-life dutch baby pancakes, pearl sugar-coated waffles, a pile of  fluffy beignets, or even a crisp, golden latke. Instead, with signage reading ‘Arlene’s,’ this 12-year-old, James Beard-nominated brunch spot, the brainchild of Chef Jonathan Brooks, has changed dramatically. Now on offer? A Southern meat-and-three offering that pays homage to Brooks’ upbringing and what he fondly refers to as “the meal.”

“Sure, we’re going to take a break from the Dutch Babies for a while, but we’ll still have brunch on the menu: biscuits and gravy on Sundays, for instance,” Brooks said. This weekend, their Mother’s Day spread features the beloved Sourdough Waffle, a special Dutch Baby, and a Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail that could give the one at St. Elmo’s a run for its money. With the brunch favorites returning in small doses, Brooks is sure that “Milktooth will never be gone forever.”

And yet, with the success of his two soft launches that took place in mid-March, it’s no surprise that Arlene’s is already a runaway hit. Menu testing led to protein-centric mains like a crispy, hefty, gluten and dairy-free fried chicken and humble Southern sides like toothsome turnip greens, a braised cabbage that’s already become the talk of the town, and indulgent desserts courtesy of Brooks’ sister and General Manager, Julie Komsiski.

Plant-based diners can find a full meal in the menu’s ‘meal of three sides’ or even dive into a bowl of the restaurant’s creamy, luscious three-cheese-mac-and-cheese that combines a strong cheddar, melty gouda, and the wildcard, cottage cheese, into an irresistible bowl of comfort, no matter the season. 

But don’t expect all-day Southern indulgence- much like its brunch predecessor, Arlene’s closes at 4. “It was always built into Milktooth’s DNA to be closed in the evenings, allowing us to host pop-ups and special events,” Brooks said. Some of them have become coveted experiences among Indy residents, like the Open Fire pop-ups, a collaboration with Milktooth — now Arlene’s — employees Josh and Julie Baker which focuses on cooking over an open fire using fresh wood. 

Between a flooded final weekend, with Milktooth regulars flocking to the establishment to result in a sold-out Sunday far before closing time, to a successful start to Arlene’s this past weekend, Arlene’s is a lesson in love, it sounds like. Love expressed through food, through nourishing the city that Brooks has called home, and love for his mom, Arlene, who is “ flattered” by the restaurant’s name and game.

“The idea for Arlene’s has been popping around in my head for the last four or five years — it’s easy to get bored with your own cooking. It’s important to always be ideating, thinking of new things to do. After all, there’s something to be said about being too comfortable, don’t you think?” Brooks said, “I’m a chef first, a businessman way after that. We get off on taking risks, and I finally had the guts to pull the trigger.” 

Whether you’re diving headfirst into a sausage-and-rice casserole side, a blackened-walleye, unbeatable baby back ribs, some homemade meatloaf, or that darn good batter-fried chicken that seems to already have its own fan following, there’s one thing we can tell you: don’t you dare skip dessert. From the tart key lime pie that makes you feel distinctly Floridian to a chocolate wine cake topped with a homemade whipped cream that sounds pretentious but is anything but, Arlene’s isn’t complete without something sweet, scintillating, and salacious.

Hours: Arlene’s is located at 534 Virginia Ave. Starting May 2, it will be open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Monday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekends. Arlene’s does not take reservations.