Milktooth No More: Indianapolis’ Jonathan Brooks On His Next Innings As The Chef and Co-Owner of Arlene’s

Ask Jonathan Brooks if Milktooth turned into everything he dreamed and more, and you’re met with a simple smile: “I don’t know if I really dreamed of things for it, but yes, it was always meant to be a local brunch spot with an open evening landscape to host one-off, chef-inspired dinners.”

Of course, that was just the tip of the iceberg. In its decade-long (or possibly longer) run as Fletcher Place’s ‘brunch spot to beat,’ Milktooth has become a fan and family favorite, thanks to its many unique Dutch Baby pancakes, signature latkes topped with all sorts of ingredients, and a quail egg-topped grilled cheese which has not only stood the test of time, but also won Brooks his accolade as James Beard Award semifinalist in 2016 and 2017.

In a video posted to Instagram on December 26th, Brooks made the game-changing announcement, declaring that Indy’s beloved Milktooth would be pivoting completely. 

Its new identity? A “meat-and-three” restaurant aptly called ‘Arlene’s,’ named in honor of Brooks’ mother, Arlene.

“My dad’s side of the family is from Nashville, and I have fond memories of eating Southern food on trips down there. My mom always involved me and my siblings in the kitchen preparing food for friend’s neighbors and anyone who walked through our door,” Brooks said.

Perhaps, the new pivot is a return to simplicity for Brooks, a feeling of nostalgia driving the desire to please people with something comforting. A concept well-established throughout the South, the meals will pair hearty entrees like pork chops, meatloaf, or even fried chicken with signature Southern sides like macaroni and cheese, green bean casserole, and possibly even some golden-brown cornbread or buttery biscuits to boot.

The owner and head chef of Indy’s fine dining spot, Beholder, plans to retain Milktooth’s entire staff once it becomes Arlene’s, a transition that Brooks anticipates will happen in mid-April.

And how does Brooks envision Arlene’s to be different from Beholder, an already-beloved Indianapolis spot?

“I’d like to think that both restaurants honor my love of world cuisine, as well as an element of story-telling and confident, yet subtle, creativity,” Brooks said.

The rest? Well, you’ll just have to take a taste to find out.