Commission Row: Indy's New Luxury Dining Destination

By now you may have heard of the joint venture between the Pacer’s and Cunningham Restaurant Group; Commission Row. Years in the making, this project started with a dinner in Vegas between CRG owner Mike Cunningham and Pacers owner Herb Simon, with a singular question. “Why don’t we have a place like this in Indy?” 

The Birth of Commission Row

A nod to an old nickname for this section of Delaware Street, which was the center of commerce in Indy as early as the mid 1800’s, Commission Row brings elevated cuisine with a focus on Indiana hospitality to downtown. According to Ian Saroyan, Executive General Manager of Commission Row, “Commission Row is a space that’s available to the city, that is not a conference or a concert, to draw people downtown.” With no dress code, you’re invited in to immerse yourself in the grandeur no matter where you’re coming from.  

A Luxurious Atmosphere

That being said, don’t be intimidated by the opulent decor and the sheer magnitude of the space. For certain, a lot of time, thought and money went into designing all 30,000 square ft of space at Commission Row; just steps away from Gainbridge Fieldhouse. Designed by Shiel Sexton and RATIO Architects and Design with a spotlight on local artists with huge art installations, ornate lighting, lavish seating, open bar and open kitchen concepts, you may think you’ve indeed been transported to Vegas or even New York City.

The spacious steakhouse and seafood bar seats 220 people and is on the main level with high ceilings and a wall of windows looking into Bicentennial Unity Plaza (reported to have a bigger footprint than Rockefeller Center) and downtown Indianapolis.  

A large square bar lined with Italian tile greets you as you enter and the first thing you will notice is the lack of tv’s airing sporting events like most other bars in the city. With the focus being on hospitality and a two-touch batch system for cocktails to minimize your wait, they decided against the distraction. 

As big as this level is, it was also designed for people who need privacy.  Around every corner, you’ll find another hidden low light enclave for business dinners, private conversations and secret meetings. 

There’s a patio overlooking the plaza on the 3rd floor that is open all year with heaters and fire pits in the winter (they did not miss a trick).  As long as weather permits and there are no private events using the space you may request to be seated there as well. 

Each of the 3 levels: 3 concepts, has its own kitchen. And once you get past the overwhelm of the glamor and the hype you come to realize it really is all about the food. 

The dinner menu proudly displays a robust selection of high-end chops and fresh seafood items no pricier than other steakhouses around downtown. Sides and sauces are ala carte.  Given the ambience, the food and the extensive wine and cocktail menu, this is the kind of place you come for an experience, not a quick dinner. 

The chefs at Commission Row have their work cut out for them for sure. They bake all of their own breads from scratch, including the English muffins in the benedicts and all of their desserts in the prep kitchen on the lower level. That is not an easy feat when you are open 7 days a week and you are also baking for sizable events. 

Boasting the Best Brunch in the City

For 13 weeks, chefs tested and tasted menu items for Commission Row in the CRG Culinary and Test Kitchen on Mass Ave.  It must have been a grueling job tasting caviars, steaks and lobster bisque to be sure. 

When I heard Chef de Cuisine Ben Barnas say “We believe we have one of the best brunch menus in the city. “ I decided to give it a try. 

I can tell you from my end, that lobster bisque is diabolical.  It’s heaven laced with tarragon oil and micro chives, and swimming with chunks of lobster and a side of sherry cream foam. Luxurious and nuanced with so many flavors hitting you at once, yet light and oh so satisfying. For $16 that is a luxury even I can afford.  

The seafood tower shows off possibly the freshest seafood I have had in Indy, with half a dozen crab claws, your choice of East or West coast oysters, large boiled shrimp, and mussels conserva; mussels in a chile marinade with a fennel salad and the optimal level of spiciness. 

The Event Space

“Above” is the event space on the 3rd floor and can host up to 250 people. Saroyan says it is ideal for a group looking for a higher end event than most hotels in Indy can offer. The menus are customizable and break-outs can include other areas of Commission Row so you never have to leave the building. They are surrounded by premium hotels in downtown Indy so it’s easier to navigate than most conference spaces.

A Basement Speakeasy 

 “Mel’s” is the vintage speakeasy at Commission Row. Named for Mel Simon, late Pacer’s co-owner, Simon Mall magnate and brother to Herb Simon. You feel like you have stepped back into the Roaring Twenties.  Grandiose and surrounded by extravagance, the basement space of Commission Row has elevated itself to a “must experience” in Indy. Arguably the most beautiful bar in the city. And as Saroyan says “It definitely has the WOW factor!”. 

As you first enter Mel’s you’ll see The Thunderbird Room, named for the large thunderbird art installation on the wall. A  round table in the center is for hosting small groups or playing cards.  

The cozy Jungle Room on the left with its funky jungle themed wallpaper, posh banquette and velvet backed chairs  lures you in with its quiet corners to hide in.

The design team went all out on this space. The glass bar back is lit up so you can read the labels on the bottles instead of having to guess what spirits they serve. The low back cozy chairs and booths with soft lighting urge you to stick around awhile. 

On this level they serve small plates, much more affordable than the steakhouse, and a curated caviar service.  Saroyan says “Before and after Pacer or Fever games this place is hopping!” 

They also boast a large selection of wine and cocktails and an extensive list of low abv and na cocktails that Sandoval says have great flavor and are not overly citrusy or sweet. 

Executive Chef Adan Sandoval has been with Cunningham Restaurant Group for 14 years and says what keeps him excited about his work is keeping the guests happy and being proud of himself and his team (40 people in the kitchens on busier nights). 

Commission Row

110 S Delaware St

Indianapolis IN 46204

317-550-2500

Monday-Thursday 4:00-10 PM

Friday 4:00-11:00 PM

Saturday 10:00 AM-11:00 PM

Sunday 10:00 AM-9:00 PM

Brunch served Saturdays and Sunday 10:00 AM- 2:00 PM

Mel’s

Hours of operation

Monday- Thursday 5:00-11:00 PM

Friday-Saturday 5:00-12:00 PM 

Sunday 5:00-9:00 PM

Photo Credits: Commission Row and Kelly Redlin