Whether you forage in the forest or at the store, the earthy, dusky aroma and flavor of uncultivated fungi signal fall. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pan and swirl in equal amounts olive oil and unsalted butter until foamy. Add cleaned, trimmed, sliced mushrooms and sauté until golden and fragrant (they’ll release liquid first). Add minced shallot, splashes of heavy cream and sherry, chopped thyme, kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper, and stir, scraping pan, until thickened. Heap onto grilled bread or soft polenta for a rustic autumnal repast.

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